Satu Hovi: Viking Finn Costume Bibliography
Viking Finn Costume Bibliography
by Satu Hovi 2002
Some books about Viking Finn Costumes:
- Appelgren-Kivalo Suomalaisia pukuja rautakaudelta. 1907
Archaeological grave find catalog with great pictures originally drawn with pencil. Westcoast female dress, lots of textile remains from about year 1200. In German. Not on sale anymore; nor to borrow from a library.
- Hirviluoto, Anna-Liisa: Uutta tietoa rautakauden hiusmuodista
An article about a grave where a female head was found with hair on and the hairstyle reconstructed. In Finnish.
- Hägg, Inga Some Notes of the Origin of PeplosType Dress in Scandinavia.
An article.
- Kaukonen, Toini Inkeri: Kinnasompelun levinneisyys ja työtavat Suomessa; SM 1960
An Article about nålebinding methods in Finlands folk tradition. One photo from a medieval mitten reconstruction in scale 1:1. In Finnish
- Ken kantaa Kalevalaa. 1835 Kalevala 1985. 1984.
Working instructions about a westcoast Viking Age dress from about 1100. Printed, but because an exhibition catalog, might be difficult to find (no ISBN-number). Printed in English, too. Try an international loan from the National Board of Antiquities Library in Finland. In Finnish.
- Kivikoski, Ella Suomen Rautakauden kuvasto I-II
Two catalogs of all kinds of Viking Age finds from Finland. Full of originally pencil-drawn pictures!
- Lehtosalo-Hilander: Ancient Finnish Costumes. 1982
Book about Viking Age costumes in Finland. Female only. Basic information is correct. Read the text, do not only look at the pictures! Some of the reconstructions are not archaeologically correct.
- " :Mikkelin kalmistot ja karjalainen kulttuuri. Laudaturtyö. Helsingin yliopisto. 1966.
Unpublished work about the gravefinds from Mikkeli era textiles and jewellery. In Finnish. Not much pictures. Try an international loan from Arts Faculty Library of the University of Helsinki.
- " :Luistari. Lisensiaattityö.
Unpublished work about Luistari grave finds, writes about male graves, too. Some pictures, fex. about a wallet and spiral belt reconstruction that are not in her later, published works. Try an international loan from Arts Faculty Library of the University of Helsinki. In Finnish.
- " :Luistari I-IV. I-III: SMYA 82: Helsinki 1982. IV: SMYA 107. Helsinki 2000.
Four thick grave catalogs from the archaeological finds from Luistari cemetery, westcoast Finland. Lots and lots of picture in number I and IV. II,III and IV includes more text. Buy from Tiedekirja, Helsinki. I and III are in Finnish, II and IV in English.
- " :Kalastajista kauppanaisiin. Euran Esihistoria. Eura county, 2000
ISBN 951-969664-1-5. A very good book about the ancient history of the Eura county. Lots about food and male and female textiles from the Viking Age. Many pictures. In Finnish only.
- " :Fishermen, Farmers, Warriors and Traders. The excavated past of Eura. Eura county, 2000
ISBN 951-96964-2-3. The Eura county museum Naurava lohikäärme sells this booklet (33 pgs), which is a summary of the book above.
- " Euran puku ja muut muinaisvaatteet. 2001.
ISBN 952-91-4118-6. About Female Viking Age dress reconstructions. In Finnish.
- ", Sarkki & Tomanterä: Euran puku ja sen edeltäjät. 1982.
A black-and-white little book (48 pgs) about the development of the reconstruction of the Finn Viking Age dresses. Includes patterns to Eura dress, the original dress pieces are from about the year 1050. Buy from Eura county museum Naurava lohikäärme. In Finnish.
- Margareeta, Pohjolan kuningatar.
An exhibition catalog. Printed in Swedish and English (Margareta), too. A chapter about dress in the Middle Ages, after vikings from Margareta Nockert.
- Muinais-Karjalan puvun työohjeet.
Unpublished mundane working (weaving etc.) instructions of Ancient Dress of Carelia. Incl. dress patterns. In sale through Kalevala Koru. Note: the reconstruction and the instructions are not archaeologically correct in every detail. In Finnish.
- Muinaissuomalaista muotoilua; Kalevala koru
Jewellery from the Viking Ages; good overwiew of the development of style during the centuries.In Finnish. Lots of pictures.
- Perniön puvun työohjeet
Mundane working instructions (weaving & patterns) of the female dress from westcoast Finland from about the year 1200. Note: the reconstruction and the instructions are not archaeologically correct in every detail. In Finnish.
- Pylkkänen, Riitta Renessanssin puku Suomessa 1550-1620.
A very, very, very good book about the renaissance costume in Finland in 1550-1620 and its development from the Middle Ages and even before. Very, very detailed information about embroidery and the fur value. Writes also about fake-fur coats used in rain. Based on the survived account books of Turku castle. Many black-and-white pictures. In Finnish.
- Pälsi, Sakari: Esihistoriallinen jalkine Raisiosta. Suomen museo (SM)
An article about a shoe find from westcoast Finland. In Finnish.
- " Miehen hauta…. (SM)
An article about some male graves where lines of buttons in the right chest were found. It is construed to be a sign of wearing a coat. In Finnish.
- Raitio, Sari Kankaiden aloituksia ja lopetuksia sekä putkihulpion kutominen loimipainoisissa pystykangaspuissa
For those who want to build warp-weighted looms and weave Finnish Viking Age style hollow selvages with it. Photos of the finished textile experiments and some other pictures. A good loom building instruction one-page picture. The book is in sale in the store of Kurala, Kylämäki Village of Living History. In Finnish.
- Riikonen, Jaana Naisenhauta Kaarinan Kirkkomäessä. Karhunhammas 6.
An archaeological grave find from westcoast Finland about 1100, which includes lot of textiles. In Finnish.
- Sarkki, Seija Suomen ristiretkiaikaiset nauhat. HYAL moniste no 22.
The Crusader Age bands from Finland. A very, very good (directory-type) book about tablet woven bands woven into the fabric using fabric loom as weft. Lots of pictures = band instructions. Some other bands, too. Not in sale. Try an international loan from the National Board of Antiquities Library in Finland. In Finnish.
- Sinihameet, kultavyöt. Suomalaisia muinaispukuja. Opintotoiminnan keskusliitto, 2003.
ISBN 952-91-6391-6. Includes an article containing information never published before about the Viking Age grave finds from Tampere area. Older Ancient Dress reconstructions included. Many pictures. In Finnish.
- Tomanterä, Leena: Tampereen Vilusenharjun tekstiiliaineisto; Karhunhammas 3
An appendix. Archaeological finds from the cemetry of Vilusenharju in Tampere. No pictures. In Finnish.
- " Euran puvun tekstiiliaineisto; Vakkanen 3
This article includes some photos from textiles from the female grave number 56 in Luistari, Eura, which are not published anywhere else. In Finnish.
- Vahter, Tyyni: Pronssikierukkakoristelun teknillisestä menetelmästä; SM 1928.
An article about how the spiral details were made and its difference depending of the area and century in Finland. Includes pictures. Very, very good, detailed information not available anywhere else. In Finnish.
- " Tuukkalan neulakinnas, SMYA
An article about a nålebinded male mitten with embroidery from 14th century. Some pictures (very small and bad one from the embroidery). In Finnish.
- Vajanto, Krista: Euran emännän neulakintaat.
About several nålebinded mittens in Finland in the Viking Age and in the Middle Ages. Good instructions about the methods and very good photos (also from the embroidered mitten in the article above). In Finnish. Available in the Net: http://www.vajanto.net/gradu/. In Finnish, some fotos about the fragments.
- Valtonen, Erja (Erja-Kaarina Helkiö): Euran puku; työohjeet.
Unbublished working instructions of the Eura dress from about year 1050 for a mundane dressmaker and weaver. Some of the detail information is missing compared to archaeological finds. Weaving instructions are for mundane looms. Sold by the author.
To compare with Scandinavian and Baltic archaeological finds:
- The Acient Hungarians. Hungarian National Museum. 1996
An exhibition catalog. Lots of belt decoration pieces and purses. (Printed in Finnish, too: Muinaiset unkarilaiset.)
- Bau: Birkas kvinnodräkt i nytt ljus, KUML
Swedish Viking Age female dress, a good article. In Swedish.
- Bunt, Cyril G.E.: Byzantine Fabrics
Examples about the patterned silk fabrics from early period.
- Elsner, Hildegard: Wikinger Museum Haithabu: Schaufenster einer fruhen Stadt. Wachholtz Verlag.
Good, short chapter about viking textiles. The best overview that I have found. In German.
- From Viking to Crusader. Scandinavia and Europe 800-1200. Sweden, 1992
An exhibition catalog. Includes photos of some textile pieces from large byzantium-type pants and fake-fur coats.
- Geijer, Agnes: Birka II:2
Swedish Viking Age dress. A book in German.
- Gutar och vikingar; Statens historiska museum, Gotland
Very good museum book from Viking Age Gotland. Little about food, a little about textiles, a little….note the belts, which have similarities to Finnish tablet woven spiral belts of men. Note that the cut of Female dress is similar to Finns and different to Swedish one. In Swedish.
- Hagen, Karen Gjol: Solplissé - en reminisens av middelalderens draktutvikling? Varia 25. Oslo 1992
About pleating in textiles in the Middle Ages and later. Lots of pictures. A good one. In Norvegian.
- Hald, Margarethe: Ancient Danish textiles
Classical Viking Age textiles in Denmark- book. Very good.
- Hägg, Inga: Ausgrabungen in der hafen von Haithabu
Inga Hägg is a known archaeologist, who has sometimes some wild ideas about the Viking Age textile world. A book from finds of German viking town Hedeby. In German.
- Ieruselimskaja; Anna A.: Die gräber der Moscevaja Balka. Munchen 1996
A book about archaeological graves from the lake Baikal with a lot of textiles. Lots of color pictures. Many coats from the Viking Ages survived. In German.
- Myth and Metal; Cësu muzeju aprieniba. 1997
Lithuanian costume reconstructions. Lots of photos. A booklet. Text both in Lithuanian and English.
- Nockert, Margareta: Högom Find and Other Migration Period Costumes in Scandinavia.
A very, very good book about early achaeological textiles. One of my favorites. Lots of patterns from various pants.
- Nockert, Margareta: Bockstensmannen och hans dräkt. Borås 1997
A medieval man found from a marsh with his clothing. Lots of patterns and a good text which does compare to other sources and gives patterns to other finds. In Swedish.
- Rud, Mogens: Bayeux Tapeten och slaget vid Hastings 1066. Kobenhamn 2000
Note that the men of high rank are wearing a mantle, the ordinary men do not. Lots of books about this tapestry are being published. This one is in Swedish.
- Viking och hvidekrist.
A good Scandinavian Viking Age exhibition catalogue. In Danish.
- Zarina, Anna: Neue Funde der Lettgallischen Männertracht aus dem 11. Jahrhundert. NESAT 5
An article about Lithuanian male costume. All the NESATs that are published (1-8) are good to read. They are very, very useful books containing lots of textile history articles. NESAT 5 is a book about historical costume reconstructions.